Today I will be discussing the great value and methods of bricklaying to create garden paths, retaining walls and fences. The many possibilities bricks can offer you is unending. The bricks can be used as stepping stones or they can help terrace a hill turning a previously steep embankment into a stepped garden filled with life.

Bricklayers can be contracted to come to your place and do the heavy brickwork matching your design or you can take a go at it yourself. Contract bricklayers are often not that expensive and will usually be working as paving contractors for any drive paving you may need. I do not advise attempting any driveway paving as being a paver is an extremely difficult job. Being a bricklayer is a completely different story.

All that you need to add brickworks to your stunning garden is a small amount of cement, mortar and laying tools to spread the mortar flat between levels of bricks. Everything you’ll need can be purchased at most builders supplies shops and hardware stores. First decide what building project you have in mind to do. Terraced retaining walls take a lot of digging to shape the hillside. Often it’s best to work from the lower level. A reinforced brick stove is a favored choice for garden.

If you played with Lego’s as a child, laying bricks will not be far off. First measure off a flat surface by using a level and then start laying your bricks. Mix the cement and mortar and put down a smoothed out surface of mortar on the bricks. Now lay more bricks in a pattern that is offset from the bricks below. Repeat. I recommend rectangular bricks but half sized square bricks are good for finishing off the top especially when attempting to add a hot plate or counter.

Bricklaying is an easy job but if the heavy lifting becomes a bit difficult just grab some contract bricklayers and pavers to give you a helping hand. Bricklaying services are nice mainly when you do not have to stress about any bricklaying equipment repairs and getting the right combination of the mortar and cement.

To find builders and bricklayers in your region visit dLook, your local web business directory.

One of the important maintenance procedures in owning natural stone kitchen countertops is sealing the stone. Sealing is done initially by the fabricator, and it needs to be re-done after some time. Can you do it yourself? Sure you can. But you might say that you know nothing about it. Don’t worry; here are some tips on sealing your granite and marble to help you out.

Does it need sealing?

First, you need to ask whether the stone even need sealing. Though there are recommendations given by your fabricator for the time for resealing, that time is just an estimate. To know whether you need to seal, you can do a water test. The water test is simple. Just pour water over the marble or granite slab. Let it sit for a few minutes. Afterward, wipe the water off and look at the surface. If the stone looks faded or is not as vibrant compared to the rest of the slab, it needs sealing. If not, then sealing can be put off for some time.

This test is important since the stone might need sealing prior to the time given by the fabricator. Sealing the stone when it actually needs it keeps it from damage and stains.

What sealer to use?

There are lots of options, and it can be confusing to know which to use. One source of advice is the stone fabricator: you can get what they would recommend. You should also look at the granite or marble slab application. For example, the sealer you use for the marble vanity is different from what’s needed in a granite kitchen. In general, what’s recommended is that you get an impregnating sealer that’s oleophobic. Impregnating means the protection goes beyond the surface, and oleophobic means it repels both oil and water.

How to apply it?

Applying a sealer can be done with a rag or a brush. You can certainly do it by yourself. But be sure to look at the manufacturer’s instructions and safety precautions before using the product.

Also be sure that the marble or granite surface is clean and dry before application. You should also make sure that the countertop or stone is free from use for a few hours as the sealer needs some time to set and dry.

These are some general tips to guide you in applying a stone sealer by yourself. But should you have doubts or questions, you can always ask your stone fabricator for more advice or, you can let them do it for you.

More information about granite and marble slab care tips can be found at MarbleCityCa.com. Visit us today.

So, you have bought a lovely new stone house number, engraved beautifully with your house number, perhaps with an ornate border or a motif of your favourite pet. You have to fix the sign to your house. You could simply have the stone drilled and screw the sign using stainless steel screws and rawlplugs, however this will mean the screw heads showing on the face of the stone. Not a pretty sight! Or you could be smart and fix with a hidden pin.

You will need: A pencil, Ruler, An electric drill, cordless or mains. A suitable pin, stainless steel or copper or brass. (more later!) Two tungsten tipped drill bits. Epoxy resin adhesive. Cocktail sticks for mixing glue. Trimming knife. One stone house number sign 20mm or more thick.

The Sign: For this method the stone needs to be at least 20mm thick or thicker. Most natural stone house signs meet this requirement. The stone itself needs to be drill-able, not granite or quartzite. If you plan ahead, your sign-maker should be able to drill the sign for you. This single pin fixing will hold a sign up to 10 kilo’s depending on the quality of the pin.

The Pin: The pin needs to be as rustproof and corrosion proof as possible. The ideal pin would be 3-5mm diameter stainless steel approx 50-75mm long. Some hardware stores stock stainless steel rod. Alternatively look for copper or brass rod. Another option is to improvise, use a stainless steel or brass bolt and cut the head off. Or have you got any tent-pegs? These are often made from strong rust resistant steel alloy, and will be a perfect 5-7mm thickness. For a lighter weight sign 2-4 kilo’s you could use a three inch galvanised nail. You may be thinking that if you cut the head off a nail (which you have to do!) the end will rust, it will not, Trust me!.

The Drill Bits: The first drill bit needs to be near to the diameter size of your chosen pin, just one or two millimetres larger than the diameter of the pin. The second drill bit needs to be bigger than the pin. Quite a lot bigger, Twice as big is good, three times as big is OK too, but the exact size is not critical. Adhesive:

Epoxy usually comes as a two part adhesive or with a separate hardener. It is ideal for this job but it can be expensive. Normally you mix the two parts together in equal quantities and the resin cures within a few minutes. Check the packaging for the normal curing times, this will vary according to temperature. As Epoxy resins harden they go through a stage where they are touch dry but can be easily cut with a knife, this is the ideal stage to clean off excess glue.

You could also use a car body filler adhesive based on polyester resin or even a gunned builders adhesive. Have a look at what is on on your workshop shelves before lashing out. Simply make sure the adhesive is suitable for exterior use and is waterproof.

Step 1. lay your number sign face down on a workbench with the top of the sign facing away from you. Mark a small cross in the centre of the sign and about 40mm from the top. Fit the smaller of your drill bits into your drill. You do not want to drill through you beautiful new sign so wrap some bright coloured electricians tape around the drill bit 10mm or so from the tip to act as a depth gauge. (If you have a thicker sign you can drill deeper!) Start drilling as normal at 90 degrees to the stone, then when you have a shallow start tilt the drill back towards yourself and drill an angled hole into the stone at approx 45 degree angle. (The exact angle is not at all critical, do not worry about it too much!) Caution do not drill too deep! 10-12 mm is sufficient, watch your depth gauge! Do it in small stages, clear the drill frequently to remove the build up of dust in the hole.

Step 2. Mix a tiny amount of epoxy, blow the dust out of the hole in the back of the sign, and using a wooden cocktail stick or long matchstick fill the hole with glue. Push in the pin and then pull the pin in and out of the hole twisting backwards and forwards to ensure the pin is coated with adhesive and the dust is no longer lining the hole acting as a barrier between epoxy and stone. If necessary remove pin to add more epoxy. Allow to harden, keep checking the hardness and cut off excess glue when just touch dry.

Step 3. You now have a secured pin sticking out of the back of your stone sign at a downward angle. Mark on your wall where you want the sign to be located. I suggest if you are drilling brickwork you try to drill into a horizontal joint of the wall. Using the larger of your two drills drill a downward angled hole at least 10-12mm deeper than the length of your pin. The angle needs to be as near to the same angle as possible as your pin. Get a friend to help you eye up the right angle and guide the drill. Now try locating the pin in the hole, if the hole is nearly right the sign will drop into the hole and the number will simply hang securely in position! At this point the stone sign is quite secure and would hang safely like this for decades!

If the pin does not fit correctly, do not panic, simply use the drill as a router, angling it up and down reaming the hole wider and wider until the pin drops into place. You will notice you can swivel the sign to the left and right as the stone hangs on the pin, it is simple to set the numbers upright and level simply by tilting the sign.

Step 4: Now to fix the sign permanently. Blow the surplus dust out of the hole, mix more epoxy, enough to fill the hole and a bit more. Fill the hole and stir the epoxy around in the hole with a cocktail stick to mix in the brick dust. Put a dab of epoxy on the back of the stone around the pin and push the number sign into place. Use a spirit level or carefully level the sign by eye. Once the epoxy has cured the sign is securely and permanently fixed. You will notice that the pin, be it stainless steel or galvanised nail is completely encased in waterproof resin and so will not rust or corrode.

Your number sign will hang there safe and sound as long as the wall survives!

I have been a stonemason for forty five years and now spend my twilight years making and designing natural stone house sign numbers. You can see examples here: Stone House numbers

What does it take for a house to be transformed into an elegant home? Is it the gate? The garden? Sometimes it’s the little things and details that count. It’s what the windows, doors, walls, and floors are made of. Three types of stones stand out as the favorite of every builder: they are marble, travertine and granite.

One of the favorite materials to use for building or renovating houses and buildings is marble. A rock normally formed through crystallization and change of natural stone to carbonate rocks, marble is a staple in almost every household. It’s usually utilized in sculpture, buildings and houses. Marble is also usually used for the floor, tables and others. It’s firm and waxy-like characteristics are two of the best features why people choose marble. It comes in different colors and designs that are perfect for houses with general motifs. Famous sculptures found all over the world are also made in marble.

Another favorite construction material is travertine. Just like marble, travertine is also a rock, particularly, a limestone usually found under and around hot springs. Travertine tiles are frequently used as building materials specifically for patios and garden stairs or paths. Its roughness and holes give this rock its distinct feature to stand out in a household or garden.

Last but not the least in the bunch is granite. Like travertine, granite is also made from a fire, usually from a cooled magma from volcano lava. Granite has been a favorite for centuries now and it doesn’t seem like it’s stopping very soon. Granite is known for its grainy texture that is perfect for tables, floors and worktops. It is also available in different colors and designs that are up for grabs.

A notable marble and travertine supplier in Ireland is Efesus Marble. The company is very well known for its customer service and quality marble and travertine that they offer. Efesus Marble has a vast array of choice marble suited for every customer’s need for their houses. Timeless, unique, elegant, classical and natural- these are just five words that describe the high quality rocks that are available in Efesus Marble. Whether it’s for your home or business, this company has everything you need to suit your building needs. After the installation of the marble and travertine, maintenance is a big key, and Murray Marble Maintenance and Restoration is perfect for that. They specialize in marble restoration, maintenance and polishing marble so customers are assured that their houses stay elegant and pleasing.

Making a house a home is simply not about family now. It’s also about how the house was built and its foundation. Rocks have always been equated as a strong foundation. Knowing these 3 stones and the best resources where you can get them is good information to have. Building a house is an investment and choosing these three rock types, as your materials will definitely be worth the money. They are simply there to put a strong foundation for your elegant house.

Are you looking for more information regarding Murray Marble? Visit http://servicesireland.ie/ today!

If you’re looking to enjoy the outdoors and relax in style then a sun lounger is the perfect way to do so. The problem is that most outdoor loungers are uncomfortable to lie on without adding a cushion. The many different styles of cushions come in many shapes so finding the right one can make all the difference between having a relaxing time outside or feeling uncomfortable and unable to relax.

Most types of garden furniture can be uncomfortable to sit on and a towel on the grass or wooden seat just won’t do if you’re looking to spend a fair amount of time outdoors. Sun lounger cushions offer the perfect way to relax whilst enjoying the outdoors as they provide a comfortable and durable cushion allowing you to lie back and enjoy the fresh air. Most outdoor furniture is generally made from either a metal, wood, or plastic frame with strong string or bars forming the seating area so without a cushion they can be very uncomfortable to sit or lie on for an extended period of time.

Most outdoor loungers can be adjusted to fit a wide variety of different positions from upright resembling a chair to almost horizontal resembling a bed. As a result a good cushion need to fit the size and type of sun lounger you have and be flexible enough to adjust to the changing positions. You’ll want to ensure that the cushion has the required amount of padding to be comfortable. Other considerations to take into account are the durability of the cushion, whether the style matches your other outdoor furniture, and whether the cushion in waterproof.

Visit our website for more information on sun lounger cushions including the different styles available and what to look for in durability and comfort. We also have information on many other types of cushions for outdoor furniture including patio furniture and wicker furniture.

Repetitive style makes homes boring and gradually you start to lose interest in renovating them. But, what if you get something fresh and trendy to style your house? Grey slates are one of such tiles that are far from common tiles used to decorate home. Slates being completely distinct from usual tiles like, granite, porcelain and ceramic, is practically feasible for home requirements. The needs of each home vary to their use and slates have the capability to suite any one of them. Of course slates are the best tile one can ever have to embellish his home with practical use.

The range of colours in slates is very wide which includes hues like grey, green, blue, black, red, orange, brown etc. However, the most common colour favoured by homeowners is grey. The reason behind it is their feature of less maintenance. Because they are grey in colour dirt and stains are get almost invisible. Scratches and notches also get concealed under its dark shades. Hence, unlike other tiles it does not requires frequent cleaning.

Grey slats are actually a neutral colour, as a result of which it fits into any occasion. These tiles are very suitable option for office use. Because these tiles can manage to create professional ambience they are now becoming very alternative for office decoration. On the other hand they are also very preferred material for home interior which add a tough of glamour to the room. A grey colour has a unique impact on the room interior. It requires no special interior decoration. Any types of curtain, wall paper, furniture and other decorative pieces can match grey slates.

The most impressive part of grey slate tile is its velvety surface. Its impact can be experience when walked on. Because grey slates are natural tiles these have surface with veins of colours. Slates at any term are very useful. The level of flexibility it offers to the user is unmatchable. Despite of high quality and commendable look other natural tiles in the market could hardly compete.

For their high level of flexibility they are favoured by builders for flooring, counter top, roofing and many other applications. For their impervious nature to slip, water and dirt they are highly recommended for bathroom as well as kitchen. Moreover, they are easy to maintain. For their countless qualities they are now gaining popularity among the homeowners. The options for variety in grey slates are wide open and the choice entirely depends on one’s taste.

About the Author:-

Sam Dicousta has volunteered his services for many organizations with his creative expressions in the interior design field like grey slates, floor tiles, and Slate etc. suitable uses.

Why, because the end use consumer is getting a better deal. The final cost of installing natural stone on personal residence or commercial building is the cost of both the stone and the labor combined. That cost equation has pushed the market from installing full bed depth natural stone in years gone by, to the majority of the market being the installation of natural stone thin veneer.

The big picture is this: the cost of labor has come down for installing “thin veneer” stone products as the knowledge and familiarity has risen on how to do it. Labor, in most markets around the United States, is a greater portion of the overall cost of installation than the actual stone product. Full bed stone products normally cost less than most real stone thin veneer products, and they are normally sold by the ton or pound. On average, most full bed products will yield 30-45 square feet per ton of coverage. You’ll have to make a cost conversion for what you paid per ton to how much it is costing you per square foot [i.e. If you paid $350 per ton for the stone, and it yields 40 sq. ft. per ton, your cost for the stone only, is $8.75 per sq. ft.]. Real Stone thin veneer is normally sold by the square foot for “flats,” and by the linear foot for “corners.” In most cases the cost per sq. ft. or linear foot may be a bit higher than the converted cost of full bed product. This is logical as the cost of the thin veneer is the cost of the full bed stone plus the labor to convert it into thin veneer. However, for the consumer, the savings is in the installation labor. We have surveyed many markets around the USA as we cover a wide area of distribution. It would be a fair statement for me to say that the cost of labor to install real stone thin veneer is, at a minimum, (only 1/2) as expensive as the cost to install full bed real stone. In many markets that differential may be as much as 80%; in other words, the cost of installing natural stone thin veneer may be equal to paying only 20% of the cost of installing full bed natural stone in that market. The more expensive the labor in your market, the more true this is.

You’ll have to do your own due diligence about finding the right mason for your job and estimating how much labor will cost you. However, no matter how much homework you do, I can almost guarantee the final cost of your project will always be less costly installing real stone thin veneer than real stone full bed material.

Many communities with higher standards of building requirements may require natural stone versus “fake” or man-made stone products. Natural Stone thin veneer will meet almost any discriminating body, and will save the owner of the project money. With a high quality natural stone thin veneer, and a decent mason installer, no-one will ever be able to tell the difference between a full bed versus thin veneer job.

Natural stone thin veneer is is the real deal. It is just fabricated REAL STONE, either in a “processing plant,” or occasionally “on the job.” Unlike fake (aka “cultured,” or “manufactured”) stone, which is made of concrete, plaster and paint products – real stone “thin veneer” is a sawn off portion of the real version of the full stone (100% made by nature). It has all the properties of the full bed stone; including its hardness, color and natural beauty. It will not fade or deteriorate like the man made imitations. If fabricated in a high quality environment, the “processor” will normally saw off the the front and rear “rise” of the natural ledgestone. Picture taking a brick shaped piece of a full size stone and sawing off the front and back “faces” to yield a natural face, and natural surface top, bottom and ends. The normal specification is for the stone to have a new thickness of approximately 1″ – 1 3/8″ and a maximum weight of under 15 lbs per square foot. Natural looking “corners” are achieved the same way – however more waste is involved if the product is high enough quality to be sawn to have all natural ends. Again, imagine a brick shaped piece of natural ledge stone, look down at it from a top view, and imagine cutting one “L” shape corner out of it. The rest of the piece is scrap if it is to have all natural exposed surfaces.

At our company, as a quarrier of real stone, and also a fabricator of natural stone thin veneer, we don’t really care which product is being sold – but the reality is that the consumer has pushed the market towards natural stone thin veneer because the total job cost is less expensive doing it that way. It all makes perfect sense, dollars and cents!

As a final thought, I will say that the cheapest installer may not be the one you are looking for. Ultimately, the final look of your job comes down to the guy or crew that is doing the installation and you need to evaluate your desired outcome with your budget. Just like you may not choose the most expensive nor the least expensive stone, you may not want to choose the most expensive nor least expensive installer. It is very unlikely a non-professional could successfully install full bed natural stone. However, it is possible that an average “handy-man” can install real stone thin veneer, and may really enjoy the process and reap great satisfaction.

Best of luck with your project!

Michael Coleman is the National Sales Manager and one of the principals of Stone Direct. The Thin Veneer Store has been designed as a place for the general public, home owners, contractors, and builders, to purchase real stone thin veneer directly from the source. Our parent company, Stone Direct International, LLC has been supplying stoneyards and building material companies for over a decade. Our main business model has not changed and we will continue to protect our valued dealers. However, we realize that there are a lot of consumers in the USA and Canada, and possibly beyond, that we do not reach with our current dealer network. The internet has certainly changed the reach of conventional marketing. There may be some individual people, that inquire because of this website, that we will have to decline to sell to directly due to a conflict with our loyalty to dealers. However, if you are serious about your project with natural stone thin veneer, and your job is at least 500 sq. feet and/or linear feet, we encourage you to inquire through e-mail or phone.

Michael Coleman
National Sales Manager
http://www.thinveneerstore.com
sales@thinveneerstore.com

There are 2 different ways in which you are able to lay a flagstone patio. The moment you are laying the patio in the sand, it is what is known as dry construction. The moment you are laying the patio on cement or concrete, it is called as wet construction. The easiest of the two for a do it yourself person is the dry construction. With the dry construction you will be able to pass up mistakes and move subject s around as you go as opposing to having the adventure of the mortar drying on you and messing up your total project. Learning how to lay flagstone is simple.

How to lay a flagstone patio

The 1 thing you will need to do is make up your mind what the size of the patio that you would like to build. You will then need to find a level place in which to start building your patio. If you set about your project on level ground it makes the task a lot easier. Laying flagstone can be very simple if you have to correct tools. Make sure that you wear gloves as well as a back brace as things can get a little hard.

Once you have chosen the site in which you will like to build your flagstone patio you will then need to make sure that you have all of your measurements and then all of the materials that you will need. Convince yourself that you section off the number of space that you will use and you can then start laying your flagstone. Start at one end and work your way across the space. Make sure that you fix any mistakes that you may come across during the laying process. Make sure that you hit each piece down with a rubber mallet. later on all of the stones have been situated and you are happy you will then need to dump some more sand on it and copse it in between the cracks.

How to lay flagstone patio? It can be a very simple job and easy for anyone to accomplish. It will also provide beauty to your home and make a very nice sitting area and you will be able to say that you have completed it on your own.

I have a great site about flagstones: http://www.howtolay-flagstone.com

A brick wall is a awful accent to your garden or can be a simple means to create privacy in a yard. While being appealing they are also very simple to sustain when finished as they won’t acquire the cracks and cracks that cement block walls might. Bricks are supposed to be arranged against an already existing wall, so if you plan to build a brick wall it should not be too big. People often hire pricey contractors to construct even the lowest brick walks for their homes, but utilising the flowing guide will eradicate the need for doing that and provide a fun home design for do-it-yourselfers.

There are many various styles that a brick wall can be built in. The most common of which is the running bond or the way where each new row of bricks begins in the center of the row before. There are also the herring bone, diagonal herringbone, basket weave, and half basket weave. For the aims of this guide, the style being explained will be the Jack on Jack, where the blocks are placed directly on top of each other.

Required tools and Materials

The materials needed for building a brick wall include the following:

Cement
Bricks (the number of bricks required depends upon the length and the width of the wall)
Measuring tape
Shovel
Trowel
Leveling tool
Chalk

Instructions

Step one:
Measure out the proportions of the wall you want to build, length and height.

Step two:
Make the concrete base for the wall. This will ensure that the wall is flat once it is made. Mix the concrete as per the instructions on the bag and lay it out along the area that will be used as the base of the wall. It is okay if the width of the base is uneven as you will be able to cover it with earth once the wall is complete. Let the concrete to dry completely which will take at least one day.

Step three:
Once the concrete is dry, mark the length of the wall with chalk and a straight edge such as a piece of wood. This will be used as the guide to lay the first layer of bricks.

Step four:
Start building the wall from the left most side. Apply a liberal new layer of wet cement on top of the now dry wall base with the trowel. Spread the cement with an even back and forth motion.

Place down the first layer of bricks, moving from left to right without allowing any space between them. Subsequent layers will have a joint or space between each brick that is filled with cement.

Step five:
With the leveling tool see that the first layer is as level as possible. The cement will provide some amount of movement for misplaced bricks. Uneven bricks can be shifted to give evenness across the length of the wall. Remove the extra cement that is pressed through the sides using the trowel and use it for the next brick to be placed.

Step six:
Repeat steps four and five until the height of the wall you are making is achieved.

Tips and Warnings
Check with your local constructing agency before making a brick wall. Many laws will allow small ones (under 3 feet high) without it being necessary to file for permits.

Keep the bricks you will be working with in a wheel barrow to your right. This way they are within arms reach and can be easily moved as you move down the length of the wall.

Please visit these links for more information on: How to Build a Brick Wall and Build a Brick Wall.

Applying the beautiful traditional look of brick gives your home a great makeover. However, by choosing a faux alternative, you can have that look without having to break the bank. Traditional bricks can be very expensive and can involve tearing down walls and additional construction to apply, but a thin brick veneer can be applied right on top of your existing walls. Supplying a completely custom experience, however you decide to decorate your house has become way easier and more personal.

The highly adaptable nature of brick veneer walls enable it to be put on almost any surface and fit any sort of specific look you have in mind. Faux brick is accessible in a spectrum of colors, styles, textures, and looks. Whether you want accents in your living room or a complete remodeling of your home’s exterior, a thin brick veneer can take your vision and make it reality. Whether you want the look of a 19th century red brick school house or an ultra-modern white brick facade, the adaptability of faux brick provides a great value. Since no walls have to be torn down, you can avoid additional costs for destruction and construction, saving you even more money.

It’s very easy to become fearful of do-it-yourself projects, but the application of faux brick is surprisingly quick and easy. If you’ve had bad experiences building a tree house for the kids, you will find no trouble in applying your new brick veneer. However, if you’ve become traumatized beyond the point of no return, a qualified professional is just as capable of applying the faux brick. The faux brick is only faux in its size. Made with actual clay and fired in an oven, your thin brick counterpart is made to look and resemble traditional brick in every way. Providing the same classic effect as traditional sized brick, a faux brick is a lighter, more affordable alternative to regular brick. Brick can be brittle and very expensive, but in investing in the cheaper faux alternative, adding a rustic element to your home is very easy.

Doing some research can go a long way in picking out your faux brick veneer. Deciding how and where to apply your faux brick is important, and the opinions of friends and professionals can aid in making your home look as great as possible. Architectural jargon can be pretty intimidating. Learning just a few and applying them to your home not only makes you more knowledgeable in the placement of your brick panels, but also more confident in your choice. Having specific ideas in mind can make the decision making process easier and will end up in your new brick accents looking their best.

A faux brick veneer offers literally all the benefits of brick without the inconvenience of a construction crew, a mason, or a smaller wallet. Just a few accents can instantly makeover your home, and it has never been quicker or easier. Whether you want the look of a New Orleans waterfront restaurant or a Virginian countryside cabin, a brick veneer wall can add an instant touch of charm to your home.