Montgomery Decor

Why, because the end use consumer is getting a better deal. The final cost of installing natural stone on personal residence or commercial building is the cost of both the stone and the labor combined. That cost equation has pushed the market from installing full bed depth natural stone in years gone by, to the majority of the market being the installation of natural stone thin veneer.

The big picture is this: the cost of labor has come down for installing “thin veneer” stone products as the knowledge and familiarity has risen on how to do it. Labor, in most markets around the United States, is a greater portion of the overall cost of installation than the actual stone product. Full bed stone products normally cost less than most real stone thin veneer products, and they are normally sold by the ton or pound. On average, most full bed products will yield 30-45 square feet per ton of coverage. You’ll have to make a cost conversion for what you paid per ton to how much it is costing you per square foot [i.e. If you paid $350 per ton for the stone, and it yields 40 sq. ft. per ton, your cost for the stone only, is $8.75 per sq. ft.]. Real Stone thin veneer is normally sold by the square foot for “flats,” and by the linear foot for “corners.” In most cases the cost per sq. ft. or linear foot may be a bit higher than the converted cost of full bed product. This is logical as the cost of the thin veneer is the cost of the full bed stone plus the labor to convert it into thin veneer. However, for the consumer, the savings is in the installation labor. We have surveyed many markets around the USA as we cover a wide area of distribution. It would be a fair statement for me to say that the cost of labor to install real stone thin veneer is, at a minimum, (only 1/2) as expensive as the cost to install full bed real stone. In many markets that differential may be as much as 80%; in other words, the cost of installing natural stone thin veneer may be equal to paying only 20% of the cost of installing full bed natural stone in that market. The more expensive the labor in your market, the more true this is.

You’ll have to do your own due diligence about finding the right mason for your job and estimating how much labor will cost you. However, no matter how much homework you do, I can almost guarantee the final cost of your project will always be less costly installing real stone thin veneer than real stone full bed material.

Many communities with higher standards of building requirements may require natural stone versus “fake” or man-made stone products. Natural Stone thin veneer will meet almost any discriminating body, and will save the owner of the project money. With a high quality natural stone thin veneer, and a decent mason installer, no-one will ever be able to tell the difference between a full bed versus thin veneer job.

Natural stone thin veneer is is the real deal. It is just fabricated REAL STONE, either in a “processing plant,” or occasionally “on the job.” Unlike fake (aka “cultured,” or “manufactured”) stone, which is made of concrete, plaster and paint products – real stone “thin veneer” is a sawn off portion of the real version of the full stone (100% made by nature). It has all the properties of the full bed stone; including its hardness, color and natural beauty. It will not fade or deteriorate like the man made imitations. If fabricated in a high quality environment, the “processor” will normally saw off the the front and rear “rise” of the natural ledgestone. Picture taking a brick shaped piece of a full size stone and sawing off the front and back “faces” to yield a natural face, and natural surface top, bottom and ends. The normal specification is for the stone to have a new thickness of approximately 1″ – 1 3/8″ and a maximum weight of under 15 lbs per square foot. Natural looking “corners” are achieved the same way – however more waste is involved if the product is high enough quality to be sawn to have all natural ends. Again, imagine a brick shaped piece of natural ledge stone, look down at it from a top view, and imagine cutting one “L” shape corner out of it. The rest of the piece is scrap if it is to have all natural exposed surfaces.

At our company, as a quarrier of real stone, and also a fabricator of natural stone thin veneer, we don’t really care which product is being sold – but the reality is that the consumer has pushed the market towards natural stone thin veneer because the total job cost is less expensive doing it that way. It all makes perfect sense, dollars and cents!

As a final thought, I will say that the cheapest installer may not be the one you are looking for. Ultimately, the final look of your job comes down to the guy or crew that is doing the installation and you need to evaluate your desired outcome with your budget. Just like you may not choose the most expensive nor the least expensive stone, you may not want to choose the most expensive nor least expensive installer. It is very unlikely a non-professional could successfully install full bed natural stone. However, it is possible that an average “handy-man” can install real stone thin veneer, and may really enjoy the process and reap great satisfaction.

Best of luck with your project!

Michael Coleman is the National Sales Manager and one of the principals of Stone Direct. The Thin Veneer Store has been designed as a place for the general public, home owners, contractors, and builders, to purchase real stone thin veneer directly from the source. Our parent company, Stone Direct International, LLC has been supplying stoneyards and building material companies for over a decade. Our main business model has not changed and we will continue to protect our valued dealers. However, we realize that there are a lot of consumers in the USA and Canada, and possibly beyond, that we do not reach with our current dealer network. The internet has certainly changed the reach of conventional marketing. There may be some individual people, that inquire because of this website, that we will have to decline to sell to directly due to a conflict with our loyalty to dealers. However, if you are serious about your project with natural stone thin veneer, and your job is at least 500 sq. feet and/or linear feet, we encourage you to inquire through e-mail or phone.

Michael Coleman
National Sales Manager
http://www.thinveneerstore.com
sales@thinveneerstore.com

There are 2 different ways in which you are able to lay a flagstone patio. The moment you are laying the patio in the sand, it is what is known as dry construction. The moment you are laying the patio on cement or concrete, it is called as wet construction. The easiest of the two for a do it yourself person is the dry construction. With the dry construction you will be able to pass up mistakes and move subject s around as you go as opposing to having the adventure of the mortar drying on you and messing up your total project. Learning how to lay flagstone is simple.

How to lay a flagstone patio

The 1 thing you will need to do is make up your mind what the size of the patio that you would like to build. You will then need to find a level place in which to start building your patio. If you set about your project on level ground it makes the task a lot easier. Laying flagstone can be very simple if you have to correct tools. Make sure that you wear gloves as well as a back brace as things can get a little hard.

Once you have chosen the site in which you will like to build your flagstone patio you will then need to make sure that you have all of your measurements and then all of the materials that you will need. Convince yourself that you section off the number of space that you will use and you can then start laying your flagstone. Start at one end and work your way across the space. Make sure that you fix any mistakes that you may come across during the laying process. Make sure that you hit each piece down with a rubber mallet. later on all of the stones have been situated and you are happy you will then need to dump some more sand on it and copse it in between the cracks.

How to lay flagstone patio? It can be a very simple job and easy for anyone to accomplish. It will also provide beauty to your home and make a very nice sitting area and you will be able to say that you have completed it on your own.

I have a great site about flagstones: http://www.howtolay-flagstone.com

A brick wall is a awful accent to your garden or can be a simple means to create privacy in a yard. While being appealing they are also very simple to sustain when finished as they won’t acquire the cracks and cracks that cement block walls might. Bricks are supposed to be arranged against an already existing wall, so if you plan to build a brick wall it should not be too big. People often hire pricey contractors to construct even the lowest brick walks for their homes, but utilising the flowing guide will eradicate the need for doing that and provide a fun home design for do-it-yourselfers.

There are many various styles that a brick wall can be built in. The most common of which is the running bond or the way where each new row of bricks begins in the center of the row before. There are also the herring bone, diagonal herringbone, basket weave, and half basket weave. For the aims of this guide, the style being explained will be the Jack on Jack, where the blocks are placed directly on top of each other.

Required tools and Materials

The materials needed for building a brick wall include the following:

Cement
Bricks (the number of bricks required depends upon the length and the width of the wall)
Measuring tape
Shovel
Trowel
Leveling tool
Chalk

Instructions

Step one:
Measure out the proportions of the wall you want to build, length and height.

Step two:
Make the concrete base for the wall. This will ensure that the wall is flat once it is made. Mix the concrete as per the instructions on the bag and lay it out along the area that will be used as the base of the wall. It is okay if the width of the base is uneven as you will be able to cover it with earth once the wall is complete. Let the concrete to dry completely which will take at least one day.

Step three:
Once the concrete is dry, mark the length of the wall with chalk and a straight edge such as a piece of wood. This will be used as the guide to lay the first layer of bricks.

Step four:
Start building the wall from the left most side. Apply a liberal new layer of wet cement on top of the now dry wall base with the trowel. Spread the cement with an even back and forth motion.

Place down the first layer of bricks, moving from left to right without allowing any space between them. Subsequent layers will have a joint or space between each brick that is filled with cement.

Step five:
With the leveling tool see that the first layer is as level as possible. The cement will provide some amount of movement for misplaced bricks. Uneven bricks can be shifted to give evenness across the length of the wall. Remove the extra cement that is pressed through the sides using the trowel and use it for the next brick to be placed.

Step six:
Repeat steps four and five until the height of the wall you are making is achieved.

Tips and Warnings
Check with your local constructing agency before making a brick wall. Many laws will allow small ones (under 3 feet high) without it being necessary to file for permits.

Keep the bricks you will be working with in a wheel barrow to your right. This way they are within arms reach and can be easily moved as you move down the length of the wall.

Please visit these links for more information on: How to Build a Brick Wall and Build a Brick Wall.

Applying the beautiful traditional look of brick gives your home a great makeover. However, by choosing a faux alternative, you can have that look without having to break the bank. Traditional bricks can be very expensive and can involve tearing down walls and additional construction to apply, but a thin brick veneer can be applied right on top of your existing walls. Supplying a completely custom experience, however you decide to decorate your house has become way easier and more personal.

The highly adaptable nature of brick veneer walls enable it to be put on almost any surface and fit any sort of specific look you have in mind. Faux brick is accessible in a spectrum of colors, styles, textures, and looks. Whether you want accents in your living room or a complete remodeling of your home’s exterior, a thin brick veneer can take your vision and make it reality. Whether you want the look of a 19th century red brick school house or an ultra-modern white brick facade, the adaptability of faux brick provides a great value. Since no walls have to be torn down, you can avoid additional costs for destruction and construction, saving you even more money.

It’s very easy to become fearful of do-it-yourself projects, but the application of faux brick is surprisingly quick and easy. If you’ve had bad experiences building a tree house for the kids, you will find no trouble in applying your new brick veneer. However, if you’ve become traumatized beyond the point of no return, a qualified professional is just as capable of applying the faux brick. The faux brick is only faux in its size. Made with actual clay and fired in an oven, your thin brick counterpart is made to look and resemble traditional brick in every way. Providing the same classic effect as traditional sized brick, a faux brick is a lighter, more affordable alternative to regular brick. Brick can be brittle and very expensive, but in investing in the cheaper faux alternative, adding a rustic element to your home is very easy.

Doing some research can go a long way in picking out your faux brick veneer. Deciding how and where to apply your faux brick is important, and the opinions of friends and professionals can aid in making your home look as great as possible. Architectural jargon can be pretty intimidating. Learning just a few and applying them to your home not only makes you more knowledgeable in the placement of your brick panels, but also more confident in your choice. Having specific ideas in mind can make the decision making process easier and will end up in your new brick accents looking their best.

A faux brick veneer offers literally all the benefits of brick without the inconvenience of a construction crew, a mason, or a smaller wallet. Just a few accents can instantly makeover your home, and it has never been quicker or easier. Whether you want the look of a New Orleans waterfront restaurant or a Virginian countryside cabin, a brick veneer wall can add an instant touch of charm to your home.

If building or remodeling your house, the first choice that comes to mind for countertops and flooring is granite, because it is most dependable, strong and long lasting. The natural beauty of granite stones is unmatched. Original granite comes in vibrant colors and has an extremely rich and shiny look.

Yes, granite is definitely more expensive than other countertop materials, but they last so long that in the long run they turn out to be far more cost effective and will retain their exclusiveness. Granite stones are harder than various other solid surface materials.

Taking care of granite is not really as tough as you may have imagined. Ensure that the granite that you are using is given a stone sealer coating that offers it a protective shield. Stone sealing is utilized by most people in the fabricating world. This will ensure that your countertops or floorings will remain clean and sparkling. This can be applied at regular intervals depending on your use.

When cleaning granite everyday it would be advisable to spray a diluted stone soap solution that penetrates into the granite pores to get rid of dust, dirt and grime. You then only have to wipe it off.

Other points in favor of using granite are that it is heat resistant and stain proof. So when using these stones for kitchen countertops you need not worry about placing hot vessels or pans directly on them.

Granite blends well with wooden décor, so it will even look good in rooms with wooden cabinets, cupboards, shelves and seating arrangements.

In the US granite is generally imported from Europe, Africa or Brazil where these stones abound in plenty in their natural form. There are many companies that deal in granites and Innovative’s Stonemark Granite is said to be a real good buy. And they even give you a fifteen year warranty on their products.

Whatever make of granite you buy, you can rest assured that you will have absolutely no cause to repent.

Stone mark granite is an excellent option for all your flooring requirements. You can view more such quality products at ShopAllThings

Pointing and repointing brickwork and stonework can be a very time consuming task and although it may look easy it takes a bit of experience and patience to get a finish that compliments the brickwork to its full potential.

We would recommend seeking the services of local brickwork contractors with the experience and professionalism to achieve the best result. However if you wish to go down the DIY route, we have included a quick guide below to instruct you on how to go about repointing your brickwork.

Firstly you will need to remove any mortar that is loose or damaged. There are many methods available for removing the old mortar, one of which can be achieved using a plugging chisel or small bolster. Very loose stuff can simply be raked out with a screwdriver or similar. This can be time consuming and there are other methods and tools that can make this job easier.

We would advise to take the joints to 10mm minimum and then follow up by using a wire brush to remove any loose dust.

Mixing the ideal mortar for the job is crucial to the application and the end result.

The mortar mixture can be made from straight cement: fine sand mixture using 1 to 6 ratio. At this point you can add dry hydrate which gives the mixture less tendency to shrink during setting and will also aid in working with the mortar mixture. If you wish to add dry hydrate, you would need to work on the ratio of cement 1 dry hydrate 1 fine sand 6. There are mortar dyes available if you are trying to match an existing pointing.

When working the mixture into the joints we recommend wetting the joints so as to minimalise the absorption of moisture into the bricks.

Using the edge of the trowel, press the mortar into the joint leaving the mortar protruding from the brickwork/stonework.

From the mortar left protruding the bricks, there are a number of different styles you can apply to the mortar.

Flush pointing

This style of pointing is as the name explains and sits flush with the face of the brickwork, which is created by wiping over the finished pointing with the trowel.

Weathered pointing

In weathered pointing the mortar slopes outward from the upper brick to the one below. This pointing method is suitable for all brickwork, and as the name explains this method of pointing is best suited for bad weather conditions. To achieve this finish you need to complete the flush pointing method to remove any excess mortar and then using the edge of the trowel, press in the upper edges creating a slope in the mortar. Mortar will most probably protrude the brickwork at the bottom of the slope and can be cut flush using the trowel edge. To create a smooth finish you can use a smooth strip of metal bent at the end and run across the mortar, alternatively you can purchase a tool called a frenchman. Just before the mortar completely dries, lightly brush it across its top to brush away any odd scraps of mortar.

Bucket handle / Half round pointing

Fill the joint flush with the surface as per the flush pointing method above, then strike the joint to achieve the desired finish. There is a shaped tool available, called a brick jointer, but it can be done with the rounded end of a tube and then moved across the mortar when still wet. Using this tool, tend to the vertical joints before making long, continuous joints along the horizontal joints.

Raked pointing

This finish is similar to bucket handle pointing, but is a deeper hollow finish without the curve. Raked pointing is unsuitable for exposed walls, because the angles are not appropriate to deflect rain. Using a special tool called a chariot, run along the wet mortar. As in the bucket handle pointing, rake out the vertical joints first and then make long, continuous strokes along the horizontal.

‘V’ joint pointing

Again similar to the hollow pointing finish. This method differs by creating a definite line in the middle of the mortar joint. This style of pointing compliments new brickwork and again allows rain to easily run off the face of your brickwork.

This article was written by Sam Hickson on behalf of Potter Brickwork Contractors in Manchester and we hope that this article is of use to you.

The addition of landscape rock in a landscape design can transform a garden and create dramatic images. Visit http://www.plant-care.com/buy-landscaping-rock.html for more on rocks in the landscape.