Tankless water heaters have several advantages over conventional storage type water heaters that store a large volume of water in a tank.

One advantage is that since the tankless unit does not have a tank, there is no continuous heat (energy) loss from the large volume of stored heated water, as there is with a traditional storage type heater. Typically tankless heaters do not have standing pilot lights like tank type units, saving even more energy. There is no question tankless water heaters are more energy efficient.

Another advantage is that you have virtually unlimited hot water, you will never run out. This could be a double edged sword though, as there is a tendency for humans to use what is available. Some users might end up taking much longer showers for instance, leading to an increase in water and energy usage.

This effect was common back when the government provided large tax credits for installing solar water heaters. Homeowners believing they now had cheap hot water tended to use a lot more water than before the solar heaters were installed. They used so much more that the monthly water heating bill actually increased in a many of the homes where the units were installed the backup heating elements were being used so much of the time.

A minor advantage that tankless units have over storage units is the size of the footprint. The tankless units take up less space, although I don’t think that is very important to most people.

Obviously there are some disadvantages to tankless water heaters. For one thing, they are much more expensive, and far more complex than a standard water heater. If they require repair it’s likely to be more expensive, and the parts are harder to obtain in some cases. Gas units require a large and more expensive flue, and electric units require very heavy wires because they use so much electricity.

Tankless heaters are typically turned on by a flow switch which turns the heater on when a minimum flow is reached, typically ½ to ¾ gallons per minute. This can be problematic if you need a very small flow of heated water, and can lead to wasting water. Most circulating pumps don’t pump enough water to reliably activate tankless water heaters.

Using a traditional circulating pump will void the warranty on most tankless heaters, since they will cause the heater to turn on and off very frequently and far more than in typical household usage.

One of the biggest problems with the tankless heaters is the fact that they take much longer to get water to the fixture than traditional tank type units. You can picture a tankless water heater as a long pipe coiled up over a flame. For the water to get fully hot, it must travel all the way through the pipe. If the water starts out in the middle of the heater for instance, it will leave the heater after only being in the pipe for half the time it would need to reach full temperature. This means that it will take much longer for your water to get hot while you run the faucet waiting for it. It’s pretty clear that this will cause an increase in water being run down the drain, costing the home owner money, wasting one of our most precious resources.

There is however a way to eliminate any of the water from being wastefully run down the drain while waiting for hot water. Use a demand system. A demand system only turns on when hot water is “demanded”. When you are ready for your shower you push a button and the pump sends the heated water from your water heater to your fixture more quickly than if you run the shower at full blast, and the pump shuts off when the hot water reaches it. Thus you save time, water, energy, and money.

Many local water districts offer rebates for demand systems, so check with your local water company, some of the rebates cover the entire cost of a demand system, so in effect, you get a free system!

William Lund has worked in the water heating industry since the 1980s. For more information about water heaters, tankless water heaters, and hot water circulating pumps visit: Faster Hot Water Instant hot water systems.

Visit Mr. Lund’s blog about water heaters, tankless water heaters, hot water pumps and more: The Hot Water Guy

Toilets are one of the things those of us in modern society tend to take for granted, until they don’t work. Since most of us have eliminated the outhouse as an option (no pun intended), when our toilets don’t work things can get ugly in a hurry. The good news is that unclogging a clogged toilet is something anyone can learn to do.

There are a lot of different shapes and styles of toilets but, with a few exceptions, they all work about the same. Water is released from the tank (many commercial toilets use a special valve instead of a tank) into the bowl to flush the waste into your drainage piping. Basically pretty simple, right?

The two main problems that happen with toilets are the toilet running (the water not shutting off after flushing) and the toilet bowl plugged (not draining or stopped up). While a running toilet wastes water and can be annoying, if you have a toilet bowl plugged it’s a little more urgent. On a scale of 1 to 10, maybe a 12! In fact, one Google search term study calls most people’s #1 plumbing problem a plugged toilet.

Anyone can learn how to unclog a toilet. It just takes a little patience and the right tools. The first thing you need to fix a plugged toilet is a toilet plunger. These are a little different from a sink plunger, which is looks sort of like a rubber bowl on a stick.

A toilet plunger is designed specifically to direct the force into the waste outlet of the plugged toilet bowl. The business end of a toilet plunger looks sort of like a ball with an opening to fit into the waste outlet of the toilet. One type that is very effective has an accordion like design and is all plastic, including the handle.

The way a toilet plunger works is by filling up with water and then pushing that water through the stopped up drain. When unclogging a clogged toilet, the idea is to plunge up and down a couple of times so the plunger fills with water and then jam the open end, sometimes called a force cone, into the waste outlet in the plugged toilet and start plunging. You may have to pump the plunger up and down several times to clear the blockage.

When you are learning how to unclog a toilet you may need to be fairly aggressive with the plunger. The key is to force the water in the plunger through the waste outlet of the toilet, dislodging the blockage in the process. If you don’t splash a little out of the bowl you probably aren’t plunging hard enough. Ever wonder why plumbers charge so much?

This will usually be all you need to do to fix a plugged toilet. Sometimes, however, a plunger just won’t do the trick. If you’ve plunged a while with no success you might need to try another approach. It’s time to pull out the closet auger.

A closet auger is a special tool that can be used to clear an especially stubborn plugged toilet. A closet auger has a short drain cable, or snake, inside a metal tube that is bent on the end to aim the cable into the waste outlet of a toilet bowl. The cable is just long enough to get through the toilet and is connected to a handle the same length. You can get one of these at your local hardware store for as little as $10.

The way to use a closet auger is to pull the handle all the way out, insert the business end into the outlet of the toilet bowl that’s plugged and crank it down into the bowl, making sure the cable goes into the drain. When the bowl drains, flush the toilet while you’re pulling the cable back to help clean the cable. It’s a good idea to flush some toilet paper through a couple of times before you put your auger away just to be sure.

With the growing focus on water conservation more and more communities are requiring toilets that use less water per flush. In spite of the best efforts of the toilet manufacturers to increase performance, this is likely to continue to make our most common plumbing problem a plugged toilet. So you might as well go ahead now and learn how to unclog a toilet yourself. You’ll be glad you did.

Bryan Stevens is a Licensed Master Plumber with a knack for teaching homeowners how to do their own basic plumbing repairs themselves. He has an amazing mini-course called
“How To Unstop A Toilet And Other DIY Plumbing Tips”. To claim your FREE copy visit: How To Unclog A Toilet

Large scale treatment facilities and certain industries use the reverse osmosis water system. In most industrial applications, the primary reason is to de-mineralize water.

Treatment facilities use a type of reverse osmosis water system as one step in their effort to provide safe drinking water to their citizens. They use chlorine to disinfect the water and that usually protects us from things like cholera and dysentery.

They claim that a reverse osmosis water system can protect you from contaminants that water treatment facilities cannot. These claims are simply not true.

Though the companies claim that they are using the latest technology, the reverse osmosis water system was designed over 50 years ago, primarily for use in the film development industry. Minerals in water spot negatives and reduce the quality of the print. In small facilities, distilled water, which is also de-mineralized, is used.

One of the reasons that we need in home water purification is to remove chlorine. While reverse osmosis water systems remove all of the healthful minerals naturally found in water, they do not remove chlorine. In fact, one of the reasons that treatment facilities use chlorine is to protect the membranes of their water system from rot and algae growth.

It takes different technology to block chlorine. Activated carbon filters are the most common systems, but additional steps may be needed to remove additional amounts of chlorine and other chemicals. Reverse osmosis cannot do the job.

Studies over the years have shown that the consumption of chlorine, over a period of time, cause long term chronic health problems and increases the risk of certain cancers. Inhaling chlorine vapors in the shower aggravates various respiratory problems and can trigger asthma attacks. If a company claims that a whole house reverse osmosis water system will prevent chlorine from reaching your shower, but it’s just not possible.

Some companies may have added another type of filter to their reverse osmosis water systems, one that will address chlorine and other chemicals, but for most people, they could have simply left out the reverse osmosis step. It is not even affordable for most people. Starting at $10,000, reverse osmosis systems are really an unnecessary expense, for most of us.

People who have wells and live near salt water are pretty much the only citizens that could benefit from a reverse osmosis water system, but even for them, drinking de-mineralized water is unhealthy. It doesn’t taste good and after a while, it can cause mineral deficiencies. We need minerals like calcium and potassium for good health. We don’t need chlorine and chemicals.

There are other disadvantages. One is how wasteful they are. One company advertised that only 50% of your water is wasted, but that still means you are only getting half of your water. If you pay a water utility bill, then you do not want a reverse osmosis water system for your home. It’s just not the right choice.

Allan Cassell is a passionate spokesman about the health benefits of purified drinking and bathing water. Visit his site now: http://www.clean-water-pure-water.com To discover the purification system he endorses and why.

Hard water problems can have a big impact in and around the home. Here are some of the problems it can cause in different areas of the house.

Bathroom

Showerheads and spray-nozzles can become blocked; they can even clog the small holes completely and reduce their efficiency. The bathtub and sink seem to be the places where there is a visible soap scum build up. Without proper treatment his build up is very difficult to remove and may require a lot of cleaners and many applications. Scale can clog pipes and can decrease the life of toilet flushing units.

Bathing

Bathing with soap in hard water leaves a film of sticky soap curd on the skin. The film may prevent removal of soil and bacteria. Soap curd interferes with the return of skin to its normal, slightly acid condition, and may lead to irritation. Soap curd on hair may make it dull, lifeless and difficult to manage. Similarly, the insoluble salts that get left behind from using regular shampoo in hard water tend to leave hair rougher and harder to detangle.

Laundering

Clothes washed in hard water often look dingy and feel harsh and scratchy. The hardness minerals combine with some soils to form insoluble salts, making them difficult to remove. Soil on clothes can introduce even more hardness minerals into the wash water. Continuous laundering in hard water can damage fibers and shorten the life of clothes by up to 40 percent.

Dishwashers

When washing dishes, especially in a dishwasher, hard water may cause spotting and filming on your crockery. The minerals from hard water are released faster when it comes into contact with heat, causing an increase in the amount of spotting and filming that occurs. This problem is not a health risk, but it can be a nuisance to clean and reduce the quality of your crockery.

Problems in Water Boiler Systems and Pipework

Hard water also contributes to inefficient and costly operation of water-using appliances. Heated hard water forms a scale of calcium and magnesium minerals (limescale deposits) that can contribute to the inefficient operation or failure of water-using appliances. Pipes can become clogged with scale that reduces water flow and ultimately requires pipe replacement. Limescale has been known to increase energy bills by up to 25%

Limescale in Solar Heating Systems

Solar heating, often used for heating swimming pools is prone to limescale buildup, which can reduce the efficiency of the electronic pump and therefore the overall systems performance will deteriorate. There are low cost solutions to this problem which prevents limescale build up and over time will remove existing deposits completely.

In Industry

Hard water contributes to scaling in boilers, cooling towers and other industrial equipment. In these industrial settings, water hardness must be constantly monitored to avoid costly breakdowns. Hardness is controlled by addition of chemicals and by large-scale softening with zeolite resins and ion exchange resins.

If you would be comparing the traditional water heaters to the tankless water heaters of today, you could easily determine the many great advantages that the latter has to the former. In a nutshell, these tankless water heaters need much less room or space, last a lot longer, can result in more money saved as well as have the ability to provide a good supply of hot water.

Although the conventional tank style water heaters are available in many different shapes and sizes, it would still be quite big if you would be using it for your entire home. Tankless water heaters, on the other hand, are very small and compact. In fact, electric tankless water heaters usually come in the size of just a briefcase, while the gas or propane-powered tankless water heaters are around the size of just a small suitcase. Regardless of the power source of your tankless water heater, you would surely be saving a lot more space compared to the amount of space that is used by traditional tank water heaters.

In the old days, the traditional tank water heaters have been built to last for a long time. As a matter of fact, it would not be too unusual for water heaters to last some twenty years, of course, with the proper care and maintenance. A lot of the traditional tanks that are being sold in the market nowadays would be lucky enough if they can last up to the average life span of around 8 to 12 years. Tankless water heaters, on the other hand, can last a little longer because of their feature that they do not store water. The gas-powered water heater can easily last for around 15 to 20 years and the electronic water heaters could last up to a whopping 30 to 40 years.

Another big plus with tankless water heaters would be in the financial aspect. Though the tankless water heaters could cost more to purchase compared to the conventional tank, they can quickly recover this due to their significantly lower operating costs If you would be comparing them to the conventional electric tank water heater, the tankless one would be able to save around 40 to 50 percent for the water heating bill of the entire household. IF you would be adding this up to the length of time they can operate and last effectively, the savings you make can build up to a considerable amount which would definitely make you decide to buy a tankless water heater.

Those households that home larger families are usually impressed most with the ability of tankless water heaters to offer a supply of never-ending hot water. In the homes that have a traditional tank water heater installed, the third person who needs to take morning shower usually ends up with a small supply of hot water, if not no supply at all as the water tank has been emptied and has to get the temperature up again. Because the tankless water heaters just heat the water once it flows through, they can provide as much hot water as you need for as long as you want it. You would never have to take a cold shower again.

Other great advantages to tankless water heater would be their economical benefit, greater efficiency, low requirement for maintenance and fast heating.

Install an exhaust fan

To maintain low levels of humidity, installing an exhaust fan is the most important thing you can do in the bathroom. If you do not already have a fan in your bathroom you can purchase one from a local home improvement store and install it yourself, easily. By circulating the air, the exhaust fan ventilates the bathroom and prevents damp air overloads. You should always use it during and following baths or showers to prevent moisture build-up. Every few weeks you should inspect the fan for accumulation of mold or excess moisture on the fan or in the duct. If you notice any problems, it is important to clean them up immediately.

The toilet

The most vulnerable water junction in your entire house is probably your toilet. Toilet leaks often involve clean water and sewage water that can cause both structural damage and hazardous health risks. Examining the toilet water lines at least once a month will help catch a problem as soon as it occurs. You should also search for leaks around the toilet seat, in the water hose, and under the tank. If you notice any signs of moisture on the floor around the toilet, it is important to inspect the toilet rim and tank seals to see if they need to be replaced. Always switch out broken parts as soon as possible, if you wait the problem could escalate quickly into a heath problem. Water damage may have already occurred if the floor feels soft.

The shower

A bathroom shower is exposed to a substantial amount of water every day and may require further attention to ensure it is well maintained. You should check the tiles in your shower and replace any cracked or damaged tiles every few weeks. To prevent water from dripping behind the tiles, you should routinely check that there is no missing grout between tiles. If there is, it needs to be fixed as soon as possible. Finally, inspect the caulking at any joints around the bathtub and replace the loose and/or missing sections.

Sinks and cabinets

Your sinks and cabinets are often exposed to moisture and high humidity levels but are unfortunately usually overlooked. Inspect under the sink regularly for signs of mold or moisture, and also check the countertop above it. Repair any drip in the trap as it may lead to more serious drain problems. Look around the sink also, as slow draining pipes may indicate a blockage. If sink seals are cracked or loose, replace them immediately.

Monitor moisture levels

Carefully monitor moisture levels in the bathroom as well as in adjoining rooms. You should always be very attentive to excess moisture in your floors or walls, and stains or water marks as they may indicate plumbing problems that require attention. If you do suspect damage but cannot locate the problem then you should contact a water damage specialist as the problem may be with your plumbing.

Fix problems immediately

Do not ignore leaks or water damage problems in your bathroom. Unless they are fixed right away, these problems will lead to serious damage, expensive repair bills, and even potential health problems. Call a water damage expert as soon as possible, if you cannot fix a problem on your own.

You’re about to learn how to fix a very common problem, a Moen kitchen faucet that is leaking.  Whether the faucet is leaking at the handle or just not shutting off the solution is the same, replace the cartridge.  As a bonus, this also works with many bathroom faucets too.

Moen faucets use a “cartridge” instead of “old fashioned” washers.  This means that all the “working parts” are rolled into one simple cartridge.  So if the faucet won’t shut off, or is leaking around the handle, the first thing to check is the cartridge.  That is the most  common type of Moen kitchen faucet repair.

There are a couple of things you want to do when replacing a cartridge.

First, make sure the water is turned off to the faucet.  You can usually turn the water off right under the sink in the cabinet.  After you’ve turned the valves off just try the faucet to make sure it’s off, otherwise you might find yourself in a scene from a sitcom…with water hitting the ceiling.

Then just start taking the handle off, paying attention to how everything is put together.  When you get everything removed down to the cartridge, remove the little horseshoe shaped clip and pull the cartridge out.  You may have to use a little force if it has any age on it.  Actually, all new cartridges come with a little plastic tool that can help remove the old one.  Just use the tool to spin the cartridge in the brass valve body so it will be easier to pull out.

The one thing to watch out for when installing the new cartridge is to make sure you install it with the little notch on the end of the stem in the same direction as the old one.  When you see the cartridge this will make sense.  This will make sure that the hot and cold are not reversed.  If you aren’t sure what I mean don’t worry, once you get the water back on you can fix it easily if it’s reversed.

When you get the new cartridge pushed in place, make sure the little tabs on top are lined up so the horseshoe clip will go back in place.  This is very important because that little clip is all that keeps the faucet from becoming a fountain.

Now, with the cartridge and clip in place, but before you put everything else back together, turn the water back on.  Pull the brass stem in the center up to open the faucet and then twist to go from cold to hot.  Visualize which way the stem will need to turn once the handle is installed to get hot water and make sure it’s correct.  If not, turn the center stem 180 degrees and that should fix it.  Just as a reference, from center most kitchen faucets will turn 90 degrees clockwise to get hot water.

Now that you’ve checked out the hot and cold directions and fixed it if needed, put everything else back in the order it came off.  Make sure it all works when you’re finished and, if so, give yourself a pat on the back. You now know how to fix a leaky faucet.